Caspian Adventure: From Tabriz to Anzali

What a week! I arrived in Tabriz, and the next day we drove from 2,000 meters above sea level down to the Caspian coast in Gilan Province.

Such a contrast in nature over the five-hour drive from Tabriz to Astara. We stopped for roadside chai and dogh-osh, a local yoghurt-based osh, in Hayran

2000m above sea level, beginning of spring

Through the mountains in a 3 km tunnel, arriving at the top of Hayran

Dogh-osh & chai

roadside cats

We stayed at Hotel Espinas, where we had lakeside views and breakfasts. It almost felt like we were in China, with the paddy fields and lush hills.

View from the hotel (https://espinashotels.com/en/) in Astara - paddy fields behind trees.

There was a large selection of hot and cold foods, bread, tea, coffee, jams and cheeses but the local honey and cream were delicious

We ate pasturma and lavangi local specialties of this region. Pasturma is meat stuffed with a walnut filling and placed inside the rice. I had duck and Shirin had lamb. Mum had lavangi which is the best known dish of the whole area where chicken is stuffed with a walnut filling.

We ate at Zeytoon restaurant and our chefs were ladies

After lunch we went to the seaside and met a fisherman Majid who was catching clupeonella (Khazar (Caspian) kilkasi) for his supper.

The next day we went to Anzali, stopping off at food markets. Olives and pickles are popular here, especially garlic pickle. At the food markets we saw some local herbs such as chochogh (Eryngium caucasicum) and khalvash (pennyroyal of sorts).

This dapper chap was selling seasonal fruit of unripe plums, unripe almonds and strawberries. I’m told the wild strawberries from Kurdistan are the best.

Another local speciality is smoked fish. Such variety all from the Caspian.

We had lunch with my dear friend Mitra at the Dolphin Hotel, which was right on the beach, did some shopping, and then headed back to Astara. As luck would have it, I found a goosht koob, which means 'meat masher,' though we use it for all sorts of things. This was the number one piece of kitchenalia I wanted to bring back this year, and I was thrilled to bits when I found a handmade one crafted from local elm, or gara oghoj as we say in Azeri. I can’t wait to use it. Photos to come!

I know I shouldn’t have but I did, I had uzun burun or starry sturgeon kabab. In the background there is Zeytoon Parvardeh which a local way of serving olives in a dressing of walnuts, pomegranate molasses and local herbs.

We also tried Anar Bij which is a braise served with plain rice. It’s made with local herbs, pomegranate and has meatballs.

At the handicrafts store